Russell's Wine Recommendations to accompany the Perfect Pizza!

I have just had the incredible privilege to have tried out a new gadget at home last night, which created something of a life changing moment. I recently was bestowed of a house warming gift of an incredible new barbecue (proper charcoal, no gas nonsense here) with a pizza oven attachment! Now, I have wanted to build or buy a pizza oven for years, I love al fresco dining and I love the infinite variations of meals that can be created from dough, tomato and cheese!  So to learn that an even more sensible option was available for your favourite kettle barbecue was genuinely wonderful.  

Last night, with the parents visiting, we decided it was the right time to take this incredible machine on its intrepid first outing. So a basic bread recipe was whirled up in the bread machine (dough only and replace bread flour with type 00 pasta flour) for the best base you can imagine. Once that is fully risen get the coals going and after 20 minutes get the pizza attachment on to preheat. While that is going get the dough rolled out with the tomato sauce toppings and cheeses of choice (we also did a giant bruschetta, garlicy, cheesy bread), dust some flour on the now hot stone so it doesn’t stick and cook away. The result is almost as incredible as the wine we had.  

Our aperitif was a beautiful little Chardonnay (it is now officially my top white grape), unoaked from Dowie Doole in their Spitting Spider 2013, a fabulous crisp summery and quite intensely flavoured little number. There was an element of minerality here that left me surprised and feeling a little guilty that we had just popped this open for an aperitif as it would have been great with the pizza too. Coming in at pennies just over £8 this is really quite wonderful value, the label fools you into thinking that it might be yet another Aussie gimmick wine designed to sell itself on appearance not content, do not be fooled this is a serious wine lovers bottle.  

With dinner we first opted for the second life changing moment, Paddy Borthwick’s Wairarapa Pinot Noir to quote someone from an Essex based TV show OMG! I honestly do not have enough superlatives for this wine. Rich in flavour and body with an effortless oak balanced beauty that would knock the socks of any Burgundy ever conceived. At a smidge over £15 per bottle this is peanuts for the quality or when you compare it to a competitor in the aforementioned region in Burgundy.  Well done Mr Borthwick and I cannot wait to see what you can do with a Sauvignon Blanc!  

Last up and paired simply with chat and perhaps a little gluttony was the Dowie Doole Chardonnay’s red brother in the form of the Spitting Spider Shiraz.  At first after the Pinot Noir the change in style took a while to get used to but once the pallet had adapted it was rewarded.  By contrast this is a smooth and surprisingly delicate Shiraz, to be honest I was surprised to learn that the Aussies were aware of the more delicate side of a Shiraz, but I am glad they have come to recognise it at last. It is the delicate tannins that are a pleasure, no teeth clinging, lip staining here just fresh fruit, and a liveliness that really grips you. Priced at the same as the Chardonnay, I can see these becoming firm Exel House favourites.

Babich

The Babich legacy was born in New Zealand around the time of the First World War. The family originating in Croatia, began emigrating to seek new opportunities to improve their outlook in life away from their peasant farming origins. One-by-one the family's children on reaching the age of 16 completed the 6-month journey by sea to the pioneering frontier land of New Zealand. After several years collecting money from various farming jobs in New Zealand's swamplands, they acquired their own land in Auckland and completed their first vintage in 1916.

The wines of today are, thankfully, a far cry from the poor vines used at the time and the resulting mostly sherry and port style wines. We were guided through the wines of this multi-site winery by Dinah Kinnear, UK Sales Manager, in the tranquil surroundings of the bookkeepers office at the Exel Wines warehouse, quite probably this office's best use to date!

First up was a real punchy little number in the form of the Pinot Gris from Marlborough, or to be more precise from several regions within Marlborough. It is an important aspect in most of the Babich wines, that they have such a variety of parcels of land to call upon which lend uniqueness to the particular wine. In this case it is the cooler Awatere region that lends a richer, almost buttery side, to the wine with hints of pears, whilst the cooler Wairau side gives the crisp more classic NZ minerality. The end result is an incredible balance.

Then it was off to a Hawkes Bay Chardonnay, unoaked and from the gimblett gravels. Again, terroir and regionality is key in this wine, lending the soft supple freshness to the wine. I really enjoyed this Chardonnay. I am still trying to figure out in my head when and where I would enjoy it best, but I guess that is the strength of a wine like this, flexibility.

Then it was in to the Sauvignon Blanc. With seven different Sauvignon Blanc, Babich is one of the few companies that could offer an entire tasting around the varietal and showcase unique characteristics in each one. First was the Black Label Sauvignon Blanc, created in essence for food and to add a layer of diversity in how and when you can enjoy a NZ Sauvignon. The first thing you notice is the incredible light pale colour of this wine, so it was a surprise to learn that there is just the tiniest hint of oak in here too. Now, do not let oak-phobes be put off (it is just around 7% of the wine that is very lightly oaked), all it does is add body to the wine, you will not detect it on the flavour. Elderflowers, tropical & citrus fruits are abound here.

The second Sauvignon we would get to try was the Wakefield Down Sauvignon. While the Black Label was tinkered with to get the desired result, the Wakefield is a simple single vineyard expression from Awatere. I found a very light nose on this which followed through in to a very subtle light palate full in fresh crisp flavours and complexity with a finish that just evolves forever if given the chance.

Last up was a couple of Pinot Noir. Now I am an avid Pinot fan, but all too often I feel a little let down by the typical New Zealand version. Just too light and not enough depth on the palate I find in some cases, sound familiar?  However, Babich do not fall into this trap. In appearance you get the usual light colour, almost rose! The East Coast is predominantly Marlborough fruit, but with a little from their original plots in Auckland. It is these Auckland grapes that add a really unique twist giving an earthy woodland texture to the wine. The end result could genuinely pass, in my eyes as being Burgundy, genuinely wonderful. Last up was the Marlborough Pinot Noir, which had a tough act to follow. What really shone through here was the red fruits, the strawberries and raspberries. This is often used as a descriptive though not usually that accurate, but here it was bang on. Given this fruity nature, pair this up with your favourite game and you will be laughing.

Henschke - A Family Day Out

I have been mulling over a title for this piece whilst writing, but hopefully the title will become obvious as you read through.

A couple of weeks back I stumbled upon the wonderful opportunity to represent Exel Wines and be one of the select few to attend a masterclass and lunch at the beautiful location of Prestonfield House.  This was an opportunity too good for me to miss - a tasting through a selection of the ever delightful offerings from Stephen and Prue Henschke.  Starting the morning off with a trundle on the train to Edinburgh followed by a brisk 35 minute walk out of town to the tranquil and sublime settings of Prestonfield House.  If ever in Edinburgh I would recommend a visit, if nothing else just to soak in this stunning location!

Prestonfield's Sublime Setting

This was one of those tastings where you could feel a real excitement and sense of privilege in the room.  The Henschke name has become so iconic these days that getting such an intimate audience is a genuinely special thing (especially North of the Border).

I could describe this small scale family vineyard turned wine-making legend at great length, introducing the six generations of family that have cared for the 100 hectares of land, the vines and wines they produce and the painstaking dedication that goes into every facet of what they do from vine selection to the biodynamic and organic principles that has become a cornerstone of the vineyard.  But instead, I thought a brief poem summed it up perfectly.



And thus onto the wines, eight in total made for a perfect treat.  An opportunity to taste a real variety of what the Henschke legacy, or perhaps rather their land can produce.

The Master Class Line Up

1. First up was probably my favourite.  I love a real surprise in my wine and the Julius Riesling 2013 did just that.  When I hear the word Riesling I usual cross the street as I am genuinely not a big fan at all of the grape variety, or at least not of the ones I have personally tried.  However, there were no hints of petroleum here just crisp, citrus fruits, a vibrancy that seemed alive and a wonderful minerality.  This also accompanied a duck pate later for lunch, and whilst the pairing worked well I could not help but feel that the food was almost distracting me from enjoying the flavours of this wine.  Oh, and this is from the wine that is from vines that are "only" 40'ish years old! £20.80 per bottle
2. Next up was (cover your ears if you are a member of the A.B.C. crowd) a Chardonnay.  It is no secret that Australia makes a mean Chardonnay, so much so that the effect has almost come full circle going through it's heyday when nobody drank anything else, to a period where no one dared go near it, to today when one is usually willing to give it a whirl so long as it is certified 100% as unoaked.  Well, Henschke might have an oaked Chardonnay that will tempt you back in to that world in the form of the Lenswood Croft Vineyard Chardonnay 2012.  There is a strong Germanic influence in this wine owing to the regions cooler climate, the oak is definitely but I have to say, I have never tasted anything so balanced.  The minerality and fruits just shone through, enough so to let your mind forget about the oak and allow it to just enjoy itself. £29.30
3. At wine 3 we moved over to the reds, starting off with the "entry" wine of Henry's Seven 2012.  Younger clones from the Hill of Grace Vines, this features just under 70% Shiraz balanced and turbo-charged with (Spanish origin) Grenache (Spanish-Garnacha), Mourvedre (Spanish-Garnacha) and Viognier (Spanish-Mataro).  This is a wonderful example of complexity in a glass, and a wine that seems desperate to prove itself amongst its Henschke peers.  The Viognier lends a real lusciousness and structure.  Most of the grapes are fermented separately and blended at the end, but the Shiraz and Viognier at Henschke are co-fermented together. £21.76
4. Keyneton Euphonium 2010 was the next up. A blend of Shiraz, Cabernet and Merlot from 50 year old vines.  The surprise in this wine was the more delicate mouthfeel and increased overall finesse.  Given the blend, I would have expected a fuller richer style, but I was please to see the restraint in the overall body. This wine was paired up with a lovely beef rump with béarnaise and wild mushrooms at lunch. £26.90

At this point there was a brief interlude for some very appropriate wine enthusiast 'geek type' chat. Covering mostly corks, stelvins, glass vino-lock and relative oxygen transfer rates, I think it says a lot about me to say that I rather enjoyed this part!

Enjoying some Henschke "Geek Chat!"

     5.  Of the reds, perhaps the big surprise came from the Cyril Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 (technically there is a small percentage of Cab Franc and Merlot too, but who's counting).  With 18 months in largely new French oak I had expected a fair punch from this wine, but again I was left in awe of the elegance and finesse.  Now, I am not saying that there is a lack of flavour at all.  The depth is there, and so too is the richness, really the main difference is a softer more pleasant tannin.  I really love this wine. £81.95
     6.  Moving on to the first 100% Shiraz, and doing so with style in the form of the Mount Edelstone 2010.  100 Year old vines (well in 2010 they were only 98 years to be exact!), and the first wine where Stephen and Prue's dedication to Organic and Biodynamic farming comes into its own.  It is a real pleasure to listen to the obvious joy and passion they both have from getting the most out of nature that they can in such a natural way.  The dedication is obvious.  This is a wine where we start to get in to a preference for 24+ hour decanting to really let the wine develop.  This has a lovely pepper, mixed with a lemon balm kind of nose that gives way to a wildly distinctive taste that softens down wonderfully even after the 20 minutes. I had to continually swirl my glass in an effort to get close to the recommended aeration time! £73.24
     7.  (And number 8.) The icon that is the Hill of Grace, apparently it is actually a valley - honestly aussies!  Well, today's big treat was the opportunity not to just try one vintage of this wine, but two vintages side-by-side.  I always recommend trying related wines side-by-side whenever possible, it just adds a new dimension and accentuates characteristics, traits and subtleties that may otherwise go undetected.  First up was the 2007, where there was more than just a hint of the softness of the earlier Cabernet about this vintage and something that really appealed to me.  I guess the best description I could come up with would be a Bordeaux-Burgundy or a really powerful Burgundy.  The 2008 was, by contrast, more intense due to a warmer growing season.  The nose was spicier and more peppery (apparently the pepper hints come from a compound called "rotundone" which is actually found in pepper, amongst other things, so it is not just the Jilly Goolden in me coming out!) At around £295 a bottle this is not your everyday kitchen wine rack sort of bottle so the opportunity to try one of the world's finest wines was really very much appreciated.

What a Choice!

Sorry not quite finished yet. As lunch was finished off with a nice cheese selection and an exceptional Pinot Noir, in the Giles Pinot Noir 2008.  At the end of such an array of big wines, big flavours it was a delight to see a personal favourite variety (so long as it is done well) able to hold its own and shown off some incredible depth of fruits and integrated oak. £29.62

Finishing the day off with a divine lunch.

Reflections on a days tasting.... Part 1

Tuesday the 4th of March 2014, 3 company tastings, 1 city and just 1 afternoon to complete it! It is always great to get the opportunity to get out and see what is happening at the annual Spring Wine fairs, what is new what is trending and how new vintages are coming along. For a company like Exel Wines it is always a mission to be able to keep on top of some 10,000 wine listings. Then again we can hardly complain about this being one of our biggest challenges now can we!!

Today we will be going back to some old favourites, discovering some wines we sell but have yet truly discovered ourselves and then the most enjoyable task of discovering a, hopefully new supplier with lots of new treats in store for us! All in all over 100 wines tasted in one afternoon, not bad going even for my good self but don’t worry I will keep this to just the highlights of the day! I am going to, having just read this war and peace type essay on wine back, split the events into two if not three chapters, pre and post lunch.

I must confess we got off to a bad start, an unmanned table and an intriguing sounding Brown Brothers Cienna “serve Chilled.” We missed the serving suggestion and with no-one at the table on hand, helped ourselves to the ambient temperature bottle. Cienna is a delicately sparkling red Pinot Noir, tasting along the lines of a quality Sangria. I have to say it is the first time I have found a sparkling red I have actually said yes, yes I actually enjoyed that in it’s own right. Probably it is the light frizzante nature (not full of Champagne style fizz). At just over £40 per 6 this does not break the bank either.

Then there was the Brown Brothers Orange Muscat & Flora, at £9 for a half bottle I just had to try this. I do not partake in dessert wine every day but when I do find the need for it it tends to be on an occasion where I need a different one each night for a week so I do like to have a few options up my sleeve. I loved that this one did not pour out of the bottle and out of the glass like thick treacle. This carried on to the palette that was refreshingly delicate and I would say great with Pastries and lighter fruit based desserts. Cracking Value.

The Finca Las Moras Cabernet-Syrah was one of the newer offerings, not yet online at Exel but coming soon. I loved this blend the Cabernet keeps it dry and evolving with a punch but the Syrah just adds weight, spice and incredible depth. Expect this to be around £11 a bottle when it comes.

Fresita, this is my first huge top tip. Now it is no surprise that every wine tasting is in danger of getting a bit far removed from the reality of the everyday wine drinker. Fresita is one of those wines that gets somewhat mocked amongst the serious connoisseurs. Me, however, I love it! It is a pink sparkler (Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay) with the addition of fresh strawberries, honestly it is genius and I am ashamed not to have thought of it myself! 8% ABV, slightly sweet but really what is one of the most common notes on light reds and rose wines? Strawberries, well this is the real deal. Think picnic, barbeque and a warm(ish) summers day and a wine that does not take itself too seriously. This one will be communing to Exel Wines VERY soon and I urge you to pre-order it!

Need a Pink Champagne but not a fan of the sweeter, fruitier options out there? Well the Champagne Legras & Haas brut Rose is just for you. If you were blind you would never pick it as a rose.

Terre del Barolo, Barolo. I would not say Barolo would be my first choice and I have no idea why as I love the stuff, honestly it is probably my tight fisted value loving nature. When it comes to this kind of wine I honestly think that the difference an extra couple of quid makes is usually hugely worth it. Well I just found an exception! Terre del Barolo has that wonderful light brown hue, not overly complex but delicious and coming in at under £17 per bottle you simple will not find better value for money than this in any Barolo. The flavours are all there and evolve in the palette, yes there are better examples but usually at twice the price (we will be discussing one in the next chapter).

Misha’s Vineyard provided the undisputed highlight of the day in the form (surprising even to me) of a Riesling! Based out of Central Otago this is cold, southern New Zealand and consequently the Riesling does amazingly well. Medium or off dry in style but in reality 28 grams of residual sugar (I layman’s terms…. Lot’s!). Honestly though it tastes about the same sweetness as a rose prosecco. There are hints of butteriness but it is the fruit explosion that caught me off guard, here is how it goes in your mind. Riesling, mmmmm ok let’s try it but I am expecting the usual mustiness. Oh, not much must a little hint but pleasantly so nice and ripe. Boom, wow I have just had a fruit explosion in my mouth. It is that delay of release of flavour that got me and that makes this wine. At 10/11% ABV this is nice and light and at around £20 or so once it goes online it is not in every ones Monday night budget, but this is a special wine. Oh and the High Note Pinot Noir? Rich, full and complex, this is no ordinary New Zealand Pinot.

Pinotage, I used to hate it then I discovered the more expensive “real” Pinotage. It seems that every time I try a Pinotage the person next to me is commenting on how they just dislike anything red from South Africa. I understand the sentiment and I agree there are some truly awful wines especially in the screw top 3 for £10 category, but please if you find yourself in that position stop for a moment and think of the size and the diversity of the country you are writing off! You will also be writing off the Spier Signature Pinotage. Nice and meaty flavour lighter than expected colour (and this is where many fall down) mild tannins so it does not cling to your enamel for the rest of the day. At under £9 a bottle this is one of just a very few Pinotage I would happily recommend.

Vinho Verde, I have never visited Portugal and consequently I have never before tried this flagship of Portugal, and I call myself a Professional! Well today I did in the form of Enoport’s Vinhas Altas and actually wonderful it was too. If I am honest I had preconceptions of all-inclusive hotel, cheap and frankly only nice on the second or third bottle from this wine and mostly based on comments from others. Well this one has a light spritz on the tongue, and a real lively taste with good but not excessive acidity. Under £7.50 a bottle. There was a rose too, now this reminded me of a time as a youngster in the Grand Canaries when as part of lunch on a tour the tour guide was mixing, and encouraging everyone else to do the same, red and white wine left over’s to make a rose. I was well underage at the time so either I snuck a quick try or I have replicated the effect at University, but the taste is ingrained in my subconscious forever, which I have just rediscovered. The taste is actually pleasant, I think, certainly it is not bad but I am sorry that I can find not better descriptive. You will just have to order and try a bottle!

This week I 'ave been mostly drinking...

Russell Wallace, General Manager

Bodegas Protos Verdejo – For those of you not in the know about this wonderful variety from Rueda, just outside the Ribera del Duero, I strongly urge you to familiarise yourself as I think this is one that you will be seeing a lot more of.

It is probably fair to say that to a British consumer the most common wines from Spain all tend to be medium-bodied reds. Even the Spanish themselves would tend to keep their white wines just for a lunchtime treat. Light, fresh and fruity are the general hallmarks which makes me wonder why they have not taken off so well before now in the UK market. It is almost like this style of wine was created just for our palette.  

Bodegas Protos are one of my Spanish favourites that we have been following for a long time.  Yes, the reds are to die for as well, but it is in their white un-oaked Verdejo grape that they have found a fabulous value, highly adaptable wine. I choose this to go with my weekend favourite of a Thai Green Curry (home-made paste to an authentic Thai recipe of course). They always say that pairing with spicy foods is quite difficult, but if you follow my principle of thinking to what sort of foods would be eaten by those native to the wines region you can get a few reasonable options. What makes a Thai Curry particularly hard to pair is the creamy coconut milk, too acidic and you will in essence curdle the sauce whilst too little and the wine will be destroyed by the chilli.  

Most recommendations cite something like a Gewurtztraminer or Riesling for the heat which is spot on, but for me too many are a little afraid of these wines or just do not enjoy them.  My solution therefore is the Verdejo. When I think of the country that widely produces wine, but also enjoys a little heat in their food it is always Spain and the Verdejo charms that fit the bill.  Balanced acidity, zippy citrus flavours but not overly so that you risk the curdling effect.

Clive Holroyd, Database Manager

Seems like a while back now, but let me tell you about my major miscalculation on Christmas Day. My strategy (which has worked flawlessly for the last hundred years or so) is to drink the fuller bodied wine with the meal and have another slightly lighter bottle in reserve for postprandial quaffing. I've found that the the time taken for the roast to rest is about right for the wine to breath, so while my good lady removed the turkey from the oven, I popped the cork out of a bottle of the Welgegund Pinotage. "Ooh" she says, "that's that lovely South African one isn't it? No harm in having a wee glass just now." Well I hate to see someone drinking alone so once we sorted out the vegetables I poured two glasses and we went and sat down in the lounge. "What's that you’re drinking?" asks number one son, so of course he went and helped himself to a glass. You can see where this is going can't you? A few minutes later son number two has poured himself a very generous glass and before it's even had time to breath properly the bottle is empty. (I seem to recollect something similar happening the first time I tried the Welgegund). 

Well it's not too unhappy an ending, because a quickly opened bottle of Torrres Celeste was perfect with the meal and I still had a bottle of Cousino Macul Antiguas Reservas Merlot in reserve (as it were) for the rest of the day. 

This week I 'ave been mostly drinking...

This week I 'ave been mostly drinking...

Russell Wallace, General Manager

This week I ‘ave been mostly drinking Spanish wines from outside Rioja. When it comes to Spanish wine I am always surprised at the level to which there appears to be a feeling (almost like the 'Anything But Chardonnay' mentality) that if it is not Rioja then it is not Spanish and I will not like it. Well, over the last few years I have fallen deeper and deeper in love with Spanish wines. The negative part of me believes that it is because you can get such a bargain from there these days. Meanwhile, the positive side of me has come to understand the versatility of this country when it comes to making wines in a small scale hand-crafted fashion.

Combine the two, however, and you come up with a rather formidable reason to get to know the wines of España better. For me, outside of Rioja my favourite place is Castilla.  First word of warning is to be careful there are 2 sides of Castilla, the first is mass production free from the constraints and rules of Rioja. Bland, characterless wines that are exploited due to their price alone by the usual suspects. There is, however another side of this wonderful area, one that allows the masters of Rioja to expand their production in a more economical region and experiment with new varietals and blends that the rest of the country would frown upon. In Castilla, for me at least, there is only one name to remember and that is the wines of Eguren Ugarte a serious up and comer in the world of Spanish brand wines, but one that, again for me, has a real right to become a household name. The Ugarte side of this family business refers to the Heredad Ugarte wines of Rioja, top quality Tempranillo heavy wines at a surprisingly affordable price relative their 90+ ratings. The Eguren side of this name though refers to the underdog side of the business the great wines of Castilla from the Mercedes Eguren range (they are currently renaming to Mercedes Egunon).

These wines span a crisp fresh Sauvignon Blanc, a surprise in a Cabernet based Rose that is rich and satisfying, and my personal star of the show, the Blend of Tempranillo and Shiraz. Before this wine I had never heard of the blend of Shiraz and Tempranillo, but it is an inspired choice. The Tempranillo lends a soft but complex flavour, whilst the Shiraz brings up the rear with a good dose of what I believe they call backbone! This is a wine that regularly attains 89-90 points from Wine Spectator which is impressive for a wine under £9.

This week I 'ave been mostly drinking...

This week I 'ave been mostly drinking...

Russell Wallace, General Manager

This week I ‘ave been mostly drinking… sensible wine! Ok bare with me on his one, and I will try my best not to get too grumpy. Came home from the shops on Saturday morning with the Times and my milk, sat down ready to enjoy a lazy morning read.  Sadly, this was spoilt by the “wine headline” which read simply, “The £5.99 sparkling wine the critics are raving about”. Well, that just spoilt my day and I didn’t even read the paper in protest!

I have tried to explain a few times before my issue here, and many of you do seem to understand and appreciate the principle except, it would seem, the newspaper wine critics are intent on recommending nothing if it does not hit a £5-6 price tag. Most of our clients appreciate that there is a minimum value that we must pay for well made wine that offers sustainability for producers that care about what they are doing.  Each year this price tag sadly grows as the Chancellor increases alcohol duty rates and indeed fuel duties to transport wine to the UK and to your home/local wine shop. Currently alcohol duty stands for a sparkling wine at £2.56 per bottle (plus VAT on the duty and the wine!). So, maths lesson time again (below figures are approximates):

Wine Cost = £5.99

Less 20% VAT then less £2.56 Duty = £2.44

Less Transport and Non-consumables = £1.84

Less Margin for Retailer = £0.70

£0.70 left in value for your £5.99 sparkling wine, presuming that the retailer has imported this wine themselves, which in the case of the multiples is surprisingly rare, but we will give them the benefit of doubt.

Now, that 70 pence also has to cover some kind of profit for the producer so in reality we would estimate that at most the actual value of what you are drinking would be 40-50 pence, but probably less!

Consider now that this wine is a Cava, yes I know it is rather uncool, but my issue is that Cava is a traditional method sparkler so the method of production is relatively expensive and time consuming. Now, if it were a charmat method sparkler (like a Prosecco), I might be more able to grasp this (but still struggling), however I just cannot see how supporting this type of wine is in any way supporting producers of good value driven wine. I will allow you to speculate on how many bottles en-mass a vineyard would have to produce to just cover their costs.

So, why not try the splendid Bodegas Escudero Cava Seco Benito Escudero, organically farmed with love, labour and a passion for what they are doing. It is one of a few Cava you will find produced in Rioja. Yes, it is considerably more expensive than the Times’ recommendation, but it is worth every penny extra and, I would argue, significantly better value for money.

Dianne Barrie, Company Administrator

No surprise that this week I’ve been mostly drinking no wine! It’s safe to say that I have been far too preoccupied with Christmas - in fact, what with having just moved house, it would seem that I’m going to spend the last two weekends before Christmas present buying and wrapping, Christmas card writing and attempting to make the house as festive as possible (amid a whole bunch of boxes still to unpack!). 

I do, however, have a cunning plan to save myself from standing in endless queues of last-minute shoppers in department stores and to give my family and friends some very special treats this Christmas. You see, over the last month or so there have been some great new product lines arriving in to Exel Wines. Whether you are looking for a gift for that special someone, such as Henschke Keyneton Estate Shiraz Cabernet Merlot 2002, a fabulous little stocking filler, such as Sheep Dip Harris Tweed Hip Flask With 1 X 5cl or something just a little bit different like Wines That Rock Rolling Stones Forty Licks Merlot 2010 or Strathearn Distillery Heather Rose Gin, all these can be purchased and delivered straight to your door without even having to leave the comfort of your armchair…simples! 

Perhaps I will have some time next weekend to treat myself to a pre-Christmas glass or two of wine after all! 

Clive Holroyd, Database Manager

Number one son was back from University for a flying visit at the week-end. I've grumbled before about how inadequate 75cl is when you find a particularly good wine and given the amount of dedication he seems to apply to studying alcoholic beverages (if only that was the course he was doing) I knew that a little extra would be called for. A chance conversation with him shortly before he came down led to the discovery that he's quite fond of the products of Innis & Gunn. Now I enjoy a good real ale or craft beer myself from time to time, so I thought fill him up on the fizzy stuff and he won't drink so much of the wine. (Am I painting a terrible picture of today's students?). I'm not so familiar with Innis & Gunn, so I got both the Original Oak Aged and the Rum Finish Oak Aged, both of which were excellent. The Rum Finish is quite surprising, it reminded me somewhat of a Belgian Dubbel and the Original is deliciously rounded golden ale; it worked well on a chilly winter afternoon, but I suspect would be equally appropriate when those warm summer evenings roll in again. 

And the wine? My new second favourite wine, the Cousino Macul Antiguas Reservas Merlot, yes I raided the bottles I was supposed to be saving for Christmas. Oh well.

Christmas Time, Mistletoe & lots of Wine

As December approaches we find more and more often that our customers are looking for advice for something just a little special, something that will pair well with not just particular occasions but also with festive fare.

With that in mind I have been gathering up top tips from all of the team here at Exel Wines to bring you the definitive guide to wines for this Christmas season.  These are all tried and trusted wines that we think you will love and we have tried to organise them by the sort of foods and occasions they might go well with.

Aperitif & Canape drinks

Reserve de Sours Single Vintage 2009 - This is one of our newest finds from old friends Chateau de Sours in Bordeaux.  The regular NV version is still available but since the release of this limited edition single vintage version featuring much longer lees aging we have just fallen in love all over again.  The wine shows divine fresh fruity flavours, and works great as an aperitif wine or with lighter smoked salmon dishes.  At just £15.95 per bottle this is still great value (bare in mind that the cheaper NV version usually sells in the big chains for around £20).

Nyetimber Blanc de Blanc 2007 - This Christmas why not think British for a real genuine alternative to Champagne.  If you want a Champagne alternative at Christmas then it must be dependable and Nyetimber is just that scoping more awards than your average Champagne house could dream of!  Citrus, apples and minerality are the hall marks of this vintage.  £39.99

Hidalgo La Gitana Manzanilla Sherry - Dry nutty and light, this sherry is undoubtedly the best value you are likely to see in a 75cl bottle!  Great as a staple aperitif, but also charismatic enough to work with canapes and antipasti type dishes. £10.74 per bottle is virtually giving this away!

Williams & Humbert Dry Sack Medium - A little sweeter but not excessive.  If a more "traditionally British" sherry is your cup on tea then try the Williams & Humbert Medium Sherry. Great over ice or with one of many nice pasta dishes.  £12.03

Fish & Shellfish

Heredad Ugarte Viura 2012 - This white Rioja is deliciously delicate and great with the simplest of fish dishes especially appetisers.  Smoked salmon, oysters, plain steamed lobster use your imagination or just enjoy it over lunch thinking of warm summers in Spain. £10.14

Bodegas Protos Verdejo 2011 - This crisp dry Spanish white from Rueda is just the ticket.  A little fuller in body than the viura above think mussels, think roast fish dishes think Charcuterie even.  On second thoughts, don't think just do it! £10.55

The Wine People Miopasso Fiano 2012 - A Sicilian masterpiece, floral in flavour with touches of honey and a wonderful balance of flavour.  We love the look of this wine as much as its friendly price for a slightly more quirky wine.  £9.44

Pascal Jolivet Sancerre 2012 - What better time for a bit of French style and sophistication than a Christmas fish course?  We have been following this Loire favourite for a while and we tip it as one of the best value wines from the Loire. £17.14

Turkey with all the Trimmings

Grant Burge GB23 Chardonnay Viognier 2011 - A budget busting wine from down under with a great balance of flavour and acidity.  The Chardonnay brings citrus fruits to the table while the viognier adds the extra dimension and a peach quality that helps the wine stand up to the biggest meal of the year.  £8.63

Moulin de Gassac Guilhem Rose 2010 - A rose... At Christmas?  Well why not we say!  So long as it is a good quality complex rose full of character.  So where else would you find that than from the makers of Mas de Daumas Gassac.  The Moulin de Gassac wines are actually a co-op run by the family behind Gassac bringing together some 700 wine growers and often nearly as many grape varieties!! £6.99

Domaine Faively Cote de Beaune Villages 2007 - Pinot Noir is a grape made for Christmas day, so long as you pick a good quality offering with a little oak aging you will find yourself sipping a wine of infinite complexity and character.  Stick with something reputable from the heartland of Burgundy like this Faively wine.  £16.74

Game Dishes

Moulin de Gassac Guilhem Rouge 2010 - The red version of the above rose.  This wine is effortlessly full flavoured but soft and fruity.  A typical Mediterranean blend, but with a few extra unusual varieties in the mix too. £6.98

Domaine Coste Chaude Cuvee La Rocaille 2006 - Now with fantastic bottle age this Cotes du Rhone wine is softer and mellower than your average wine from this part of the world.  There are more expensive cuvee's from this vineyard but the La Rocaille does it for us! £14.75

Red Meat

Chakana Malbec 2013 - The Argentines, love their red meat so you know you can trust them for a cracking wine to pair here.  100% Malbec, full of body in a glass coating, lip smacking sort of way. £7.97

Welgegund Pinotage 2009 - We have been tipping this wine for some time now, sadly they have just announced they are no longer producing wine (they only ever made 3,000 bottles per year in the first place!  This is perfect with a rich roast lamb or slightly oriental flavoured meats. £21.68

Los Vascos Cabernet Sauvignon 2011 - If anyone in the world knows how to make a good Cabernet wine then it must be the Rothschild family.  So you know what to expect from their Chilean venture.  Full, rich tannin but with an underlying and undisputable quality. £10.10

Bodegas Protos Joven Roble 2011 - Like your red wines just a little more subtle but still with unbeatable quality?  Then this wine from the founders of the Ribera del Duero is just for you.  In essence this is a Cosecha (young) Rioja style wine.  Heavy on the tempranillo, full in the character.  £11.96

Turkey Curry Leftovers?

Now if ever there was a wine pairing topic not covered in the average wine blog it is this one.  I do believe that I am not the only one that makes a habit of partaking in a bit of leftovers turkey curry on Boxing day right?  If so then you need a great wine that pairs with the spice.  You could opt for the age old favourite from Marlborough?  The Tinpot Hut Sauvignon Blanc features the acidity to cut effortlessly through the spice in anything but the hottest of curries. £12.55.  Personally my mantra is why opt for the usual thing in front of you when there is something special just round the corner!  With that in mind, head to the Austria winery of Weingut Aigner and their Sandgrube Gruner Veltliner. £13.40.  Fear not these are modern style wines totally dry crisp and fresh.  They possess a similar acidity and I find work great with spices and will be a nice talking point at the table.

Cheese, Chocolate, Christmas pudding and all the sweet treats

You have indulged yourself all day, and in fact most likely all month so why not carry it on into the after dinner drinks!

Bertani Recioto Valpolicella DOC 2010 - I love a nice sweet red, it tends to be the sort of thing most of us gloss over in favour of a more established Port or a Sauternes.  For me a sweet red is the king of indulgences and so very versatile in its pairings.  I love it with chocolate but equally it goes with a light fruit tart or a cheeseboard. £21.52

Jean-Christophe Barbe 'Chateau Laville' 2009 - If a more traditional dessert wine is what you desire then this little sauternes is just the ticket.  Wild heather honey with that twist of spiciness is what we pick up.  Full flavour yet fresh and fruity. £16.97

Fonseca Aged Tawny 10 Year Old - It is no secret that I love a Pinot Noir, so it is no surprise that of all the Ports I love Tawny the best.  For me its lighter delicate nature works magnificently as an after dinner drink (especially when that dinner is a gargantuan feast) due to its lighter nature. £16.35

Grant Burge 10 Year Old Tawny - Well they say to save the best for last and this is no exception!  This Tawny Port-style wine is from the Australian Barossa valley (yes they have a rich history in Port wine as well!).  For me it is Christmas day in a bottle, rich mulled wine spices and an overwhelming taste of Christmas pudding.  This is one of our fastest movers year round so we are expecting big demand from this at Christmas. £22.21

This week I'ave been mostly drinking...

Susan Ross, Logistics Manager

We all had a fabulous tasting with the brand ambassador for Innis & Gunn on Thursday evening in our retail shop.  However, rather than go home with an armful of beer for the weekend, which I think I’ll leave until nearer Christmas and stock up for some gifts and guests, I decided to try a couple of wines I haven’t yet managed to – we are in the enviable predicament that we are so spoilt for choice, it is a bit of a headache choosing which wine to take home for the weekend, never mind the potential headache once its drunk!

So the choice for Sunday dinner was Camillo De Lellis Biferno Rosso Riserva Doc.  All of our shop customers rave about this wine, and now I know why.  It is a great wine without the great price ticket.  It’s Italian, from the area of Molise which is one of Italy’s smallest and least developed wine regions, and this wine oozes rustic charm. Jammy on the nose and smooth and deep in flavour – a perfect pairing for Sunday Roast.

My other choice, and again, one I’ve chosen to bring in to sell in our shop but hadn't actually got round to tasting it yet was Miopasso Fiano and I definitely needed to try this one - I’m a great lover of Italian and Spanish wines, to me they offer something a little different from the norm and Fiano is no exception to this.  I wasn’t disappointed!  Fairly deep in colour, quite golden, so I was expecting it to be perhaps a bit heavy, however, no, it was quite light in texture with loads of fruit: peachy and pear flavours, with a nice crispy and refreshing finish.  

Clive Holroyd, Database Manager

We're having a cracking Autumn in this part of the world. Although a handful of trees are bare there are many nearly in full leaf and a few of those are even still showing some greenery, so a stroll round the Perthshire hills will reveal a glorious panoply of greens, browns, reds, oranges and golds. Then there's the air - crisp, cold and clear; breathing it makes you feel extra alive and the clarity highlighted by the low sun means you can literally see for miles. Amazing. Now where was I? Oh yes, wine. I start craving hearty chunky soups and stews at this time of year- we had a delicious butternut squash and paprika soup at the week-end and I think that venison haunch in the freezer will work really well with some freshly picked hedgerow fruits which are in abundance at the moment. Something full and fruity is called for on the drinking front and as luck would have it, Russell's just put a full and fruity mixed case on our website.  I chose a bottle of the VinaApaltagua Huaquen Cabernet Sauvignon Reserva Chile 2010 from said case. I've already tried and enjoyed the Carmenere from the same producer so expectations where high, and I wasn't disappointed. Most tasting notes mention strawberries but I got more black and redcurrant in a full and generous but not overpowering drink from an all too small bottle. Maybe I should have bought the whole case after all.

Dianne Barrie, Company Administrator 

This week I ‘ave been mostly drinking…whisky. Yes, that’s right, whisky! Since tasting the Old Perth some months back when it was re-launched at a tasting in our retail shop, I have started to “get in to” whisky. I am, of course, far from what could be described as a very ‘educated’ whisky drinker, but I am starting to become a little more familiar with the differences in whisky styles produced in different regions of Scotland. I have to admit that I do have a preference for the softer, sweeter, fruitier whiskies – I find that I haven’t quite developed a palate for the heavier smoky, peaty styles…yet. Anyway down to this week’s choice, which I learned was actually named after a long lost distillery that once produced whisky just up the road from here between Milnathort and Forgandenny! That distillery was Stronachie. Established in 1890, the distillery finally closed its doors in 1928 when, like so many others, was forced to close following a slump in the whisky industry after the First World War.  Only four bottles of the original Stronachie from the actual distillery existed, and the story of the name's revival started in 2002 when Dewar Rattray (now A.D. Rattray) bought a bottle of Stronachie from 1904 at auction. They decided to try and recreate a whisky from this lost distillery and distribute it once again. A sample was taken from the 1904 bottle which A.D. Rattray tried to link to characteristics of a distillery still in operation - Benrinnes Distillery in Speyside, which now supplies the whisky that goes in to Stronachie. I tried the 12 year old, which I found to be lovely and rich with a very enticing honey nut flavours. There is also a slight touch of smoke on the palate from this whisky, but for me this seemed to bring out the fullness of the endnote flavours of toffee, which were almost Muscovado sugar-like in quality. A very enjoyable dram.  

This week I'ave been mostly drinking...

Russell Wallace, General Manager

This Week I ‘ave been mostly drinking… Running Duck Pinotage.  

This is one of those low price, Organic no added Sulphur wines that despite my colleagues assurance I have been rather sceptical about and thus have avoided.  Most of my reluctance I would imagine comes from insider knowledge, just in the same way as having ran many restaurants and seen the reality behind the curtain, I now really struggle to enjoy a meal out like I used to!  Being part of the wine trade I am all to familiar with how much of a bottle of wine goes into the Government pockets and other things that I cannot actually pour in my glass.  So with that in mind I always struggle to grasp just how any budget wines can really deliver a level of quality for the incredibly low return a vineyard owner will get, never mind when they go for Organic certification and more difficult low-sulphur type techniques.  So this week I got my act together and gave this one a bash to see just what a South African Vineyard can actually do with a couple of Rand and I was really quite pleasantly surprised.  The producer Stellar Organics produces this great Q& A on http://stellarorganics.com/media/general/No-sulphur-added_wines_QandA.pdf.  The wine itself is great, nice and rich for these darker colder nights but not heavily tannic so it gets my thumbs up.  This is more refined than your average Pinotage with rounder edges and generally a less harsh feel to it.  It also has just a tiny touch of the same quality that made me fall in love with the Welgegund Pinotage, an unusual lemongrass type feel.  All in all for under a tenner you do get well more than £10 worth of wine in my humble opinion.  Grab a bottle today and give it a bash!

Susan Ross, Logistics manager

Get into the Christmas way of thinking with Rocland Estates The Chocolate Box SparklingMoscato

Moscato is normally sweet but delicate and a great tipple for day-time drinking or pre-dinner.  Not too high in alcohol, so it won’t spoil the rest of the evening, or put too many inches round the waistline (always my concern)!  The wine is very pale in colour, but the aromas are anything but understated, zooming out in full floral, orangey Muscat character.  It is soft and sweet, balanced a bit by citrusy acids on the finish.  A great drink for Christmas morning while you’re opening all these pressies, or if that’s too much to think about at the moment, a very pleasant early evening tipple just before dinner on Saturday while you’re tapping your toes to Strictly Come Dancing.

Dianne Barrie, Company Administrator

I can’t say that I know a great deal about one of my wine choices this week…in fact I have to admit that, to my knowledge, I have never tried this grape variety before! Well, there’s a first time for everything, and so it was with some intrigue that I decided to give Crossroads Winery Milestone Series Gewurztraminer from New Zealand a try. It’s fair to say that this style of wine is not my usual choice, however I found myself really enjoying this wine. While it does have a soft lemony fruitiness to it with slight hints of ginger, it was the beautiful floral rose notes that really grabbed my attention in the glass. Wonderfully balanced, it’s not a heavy wine, though I would say that this is one of those wines you would want to enjoy with food. As it happens, we were having plaice for supper that evening and this wine complemented the subtle sweetness of the fish perfectly. If, like me, you haven’t explored this grape variety before either, then I urge you to give this one a try…you won’t be disappointed.