The Babich legacy was born in New Zealand around the time of the First World
War. The family originating in Croatia, began emigrating to seek new
opportunities to improve their outlook in life away from their peasant farming
origins. One-by-one the family's children on reaching the age of 16 completed the 6-month journey
by sea to the pioneering frontier land of New
Zealand. After several years collecting money from various farming jobs
in New Zealand's swamplands, they acquired their own land in Auckland and completed
their first vintage in 1916.
The
wines of today are, thankfully, a far cry from the poor vines used at the time
and the resulting mostly sherry and port style wines. We were guided
through the wines of this multi-site winery by Dinah Kinnear, UK Sales Manager, in the tranquil
surroundings of the bookkeepers office at the Exel Wines warehouse, quite
probably this office's best use to date!
First up
was a real punchy little number in the form of the Pinot Gris from Marlborough,
or to be more precise from several regions within Marlborough. It is an
important aspect in most of the Babich wines, that they have such a variety of
parcels of land to call upon which lend uniqueness to the particular
wine. In this case it is the cooler Awatere region that lends a richer, almost buttery side, to the wine with hints of pears, whilst the cooler Wairau
side gives the crisp more classic NZ minerality. The end result is an
incredible balance.
Then it
was off to a Hawkes Bay Chardonnay, unoaked and from the gimblett
gravels. Again, terroir and regionality is key in this wine, lending the
soft supple freshness to the wine. I really enjoyed this Chardonnay. I am still trying to figure out in my head when and where I would enjoy
it best, but I guess that is the strength of a wine like this, flexibility.
Then it
was in to the Sauvignon Blanc. With seven different Sauvignon Blanc, Babich is
one of the few companies that could offer an entire tasting around the varietal
and showcase unique characteristics in each one. First was the Black Label Sauvignon Blanc, created in essence for food and to add a layer of
diversity in how and when you can enjoy a NZ Sauvignon. The first thing you notice
is the incredible light pale colour of this wine, so it was a surprise to learn that
there is just the tiniest hint of oak in here too. Now, do not let
oak-phobes be put off (it is just around 7% of the wine that is very lightly
oaked), all it does is add body to the wine, you will not detect it on the
flavour. Elderflowers, tropical & citrus fruits are abound here.
The second
Sauvignon we would get to try was the Wakefield Down Sauvignon. While the
Black Label was tinkered with to get the desired result, the Wakefield is a
simple single vineyard expression from Awatere. I found a very light nose
on this which followed through in to a very subtle light palate full in fresh
crisp flavours and complexity with a finish that just evolves forever if given
the chance.
Last up
was a couple of Pinot Noir. Now I am an avid Pinot fan, but all too often
I feel a little let down by the typical New Zealand version. Just too
light and not enough depth on the palate I find in some cases, sound
familiar? However, Babich do not fall into this trap. In appearance you get
the usual light colour, almost rose! The East Coast is predominantly
Marlborough fruit, but with a little from their original plots in
Auckland. It is these Auckland grapes that add a really unique twist giving an earthy woodland texture to the wine. The end result could genuinely
pass, in my eyes as being Burgundy, genuinely wonderful. Last up was the
Marlborough Pinot Noir, which had a tough act to follow. What really
shone through here was the red fruits, the strawberries and raspberries. This is
often used as a descriptive though not usually that accurate, but here it was bang
on. Given this fruity nature, pair this up with your favourite game and
you will be laughing.
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