Sulphite-Free Wines (Part 2)

Following on from our last posting, here's more from us on the topic of sulphite-free wines...

...to re-cap, we were considering how you could minimise your sulphur intake.

Well, you could look to imbibe only wines labelled ‘sulphite-free’, and we stock a few. They taste very good, and they offer peace of mind. However, they tend not to be available in a very diverse range. The reason for this is that sulphites are regarded by the vast majority of wine-makers as an integral part of their product, and this includes the finest producers out there. It is perhaps best to remember that many wines that do contain sulphites contain only a necessary amount, while others will contain high or excessive amounts. The trick is to be able to discern between the two.

To do this, we need again to think about quantity. Wine-makers who have built, or are building, a reputation for quality will almost certainly exercise better judgement when adding sulphites. They will be aware that superfluous sulphites can be detected in the flavour of the wine – a trait they are keen to avoid. But more often than not, they will also be producing on a smaller scale and will be better able to quantify the amount of additional sulphur which is required to stabilise their wine. Conversely, producers of mass quantities of wine are more cautious when ensuring their wines are adequately preserved, which means they are more liberal with sulphite use.

The bottom line for us, then, is identifying those wines. It is easier than it sounds. First, the wines to rule out are the ones you can easily think of; we do not have to name names. If one wine takes up a whole shelf in a supermarket, and that supermarket chain has several hundred branches across the country, then that is a wine you probably want to avoid. Instead, look out for key phrases on the label which indicate a smaller scale of production. “Mis en bouteille au chateau” means the wine has been bottled at the same place the grapes were grown. This suggests the wine has been produced at a level where each step of the process has been overseen by a small team of wine-makers. Similarly, ‘Estate-Grown’ suggests a local level of production where the emphasis has been on growing good grapes and turning them into good wine.

At Exel Wines, we have always been committed to sourcing and supplying wines with a bespoke provenance, and not just because of the sulphite content. We like to support artisan and conscientious wine-makers, we are obsessive when it comes to securing wines of great quality and we never stock the kind of wines that are bulk-produced and are available in a myriad of other places. And, of course, we are always on hand to offer tailored advice when you are looking to buy wine, whether it is a special bottle or just something for the weekend. You’ll find us in our shop in Perth, or online.

Listed below are a select few of our wines which adhere to sound wine-making principles and go easy on the sulphites:

Domaine Pierre Frick Pinot Noir ‘Sans Soufre’ 2008 (France, Alsace)

Domaine Pierre Frick Chasselas ‘Sans Soufre’ 2008/09 (France, Alsace)

Domaine Pierre Pinot Gris Vinifie ‘Sans Soufre’ 2009 (France, Alsace)

Domaine Guy Allion Sauvignon de Touraine 2010 (France, Loire Valley)

Anna Martens Vino di Anna  Jeudi 15 2009 (Sicily)

Welgegund Pinotage 2009 (S. Africa, Western Cape)

Sulphite-Free Wines

One of the things we get asked a lot is if we sell sulphite-free wines. It is a relevant question, but the answer is that sulphite-free wines remain a fringe phenomenon in the market. The addition of sulphites to wine is a historic practice and it remains a virtually universal aspect of wine-making. They are anti-oxidants and the truth is they are useful little fellas. The unfortunate thing is that a small proportion of consumers take adverse reactions to them, which include wheezing or coughing and particularly bad hang-overs. That being the case, we thought we might take the time to address this issue.

Sulphites are a form of sulphur dioxide (S02), which are used in wine as a preservative, to prevent oxidation and keep your wine lovely and fresh. This compound is actually produced naturally in the fermentation of grapes so, as a matter of fact, all wines include at least a little sulphur. Most sulphur is contained in the skin of the grape, so red wines, which are fermented with the skin of the grapes included, contain more natural sulphur than white or rosé wines. This is a useful fact for those looking for low-sulphite wines, as red wines require less added sulphur and are thus less likely to cause a reaction. Another useful tip is that champagne, and other sparkling wines which are bottle fermented, depend on naturally generated sulphur rather than added sulphites and are therefore also less likely to cause a reaction.

What is the difference between added sulphites and natural sulphites? Apart from the sulphites which occur naturally being an organic product of fermentation, the crux of the issue lies in quantity. Added sulphites always exist in addition to the sulphites already present in the wine. The more sulphites there are in your glass, the more likely you are to react to them. The EU has a stated position on sulphites, and has issued directives in accordance with their stance. If a wine sold in the EU contains more than 10mg of sulphites per litre of wine, it must state on the label that it contains sulphites. That means that wines which label themselves ‘sulphite-free’ may in fact contain up to 10mg/litre (which will account for those sulphites occurring naturally). Moreover, the EU has set an upper limit for sulphite content, which is 200mg/litre.

In practice, few people suffer a reaction to wines containing less than 20mg/litre. But the EU directives leave a lot of scope for variation. The EU also has a recommended daily intake which works out at approximately 60mg for the average female. To put this in perspective, that equates to two small glasses of white wine; it is also equivalent to four dried apricots (dried fruits, like apricots and raisins are routinely treated with S02 to act as a preservative. Like we said, sulphites are actually quite handy).

But what can you do to minimise your sulphur intake and, if you are more susceptible, avoid the incumbent coughing, wheezing and headaches? Keep an eye out for our next blog when we will tell you more!

Friday 30th September 2011

A slightly damp evening outside, but within the cosy confines of the Loch Lomond Golf Club we prepared ourselves for a rather special evening. Gaining an invitation to such an intimate dinner with one of wine-makings greatest legends is nothing to be complacent about.

John Duval was for some 29 years a winemaker at Penfolds, now John has the opportunity to concentrate on both his own vineyard and on his project with Martin Krajewski at Songlines Estates.

On paper, tonight sounds something of a mixed bag; with Bordeaux, MacLaren Vale and the Barossa all having a look in. However, when you know the people behind the wines, and indeed, the character and ethos behind the wines it all starts to make delightful sense.

The evening started off with one of our all-time favourites Reserve de Sours Sparkling Rose from Bordeaux a wine that was just born to get a great evening off on the right note. Mix in a few Haggis & Black Pudding Bon Bons and Mushroom Canapes and I could have carried the evening on in this fashion for some time.

Alas dinner was announced and the wines began:

1.       La Source 2008, Chateau de Sours – The accompanying Pork Belly and Pear Beignet I think says something about this wine and its full flavours and complex characteristics. A Sauvignon Semillon blend made in true Pessac style, from Chateau de Sours’ limestone rich vineyards. This terroir really comes through in the rich minerality in the wine. A match I personally would not have thought of but that works so terribly well.

2.       Plexus Marsanne, Roussanne, Viognier 2010 – Served alongside some sublime Scallops, this was a match made in heaven. This wine is a true expression of John Duval’s skill as a wine maker with each grape variety interacting and adding another layer to the complexity, structure and texture of the wine rather than just acidic crispness.

3.       La Source Rose 2010 – Blackcurrant lollipop matched this wine again in excellent fashion with the flavours in the wine lifting the dish and the flavours in the dish just exploding the wine. It was a real welcome relief on the rather dreich wet evening outside; summer was truly blooming for us indoors.

4.       Plexus Shiraz Grenache Mouvedre 2008 – The first offering from John Duval’s red selection and the first red of the evening. This 100% barrel matured blend is a real joy. On the surface, this is a real seamless wine readily approachable in its youth but with a capacity to age for some 10 years – truly impressive for a wine of this level.

5.       Songlines Shiraz 2004 – Served from the magnum, these are wines that really do stand up to any of their cousins from the Barossa. A project between Martin Krajewski, David Fatches and John Duval with the single intention of creating the best Shiraz in the MacLaren Vale.  In-house we think that the 2004 is at its prime in the 75cl format and will no doubt carry on delivering for some years yet. In the Magnum, this wine I can see still delivering for another decade. Both wines were served alongside Venison wrapped in Pancetta, with red cabbage and pumpkin.

6.       Eligo Shiraz 2008 - Showing off John Duval’s best Shiraz from the 2008 vintage, Eligo is a real structured expression of power texture and palate length. Speaking personally, this just pipped the Songlines estate as the wine of the evening but only when you consider everything from the quality, to the taste, to the price, to the atmosphere.

7.       Penfolds Grange 2000 – A wine to end the evening off to perfection, sourced by ourselves for the dinner from a private collector stored in bond since it was released and not moved since.  On first inspection this wine exploded in the nose giving off the freshest most intense of fruit flavours giving promise to what was to come. On the palette this intensity gave way to a surprisingly delicate, intriguing but structured flavour one could imagine. It never ceases to surprise me just how much a wine can evolve from youth into its ‘drinking years’.  A wine that will continue to delight for years to come.

We retired from dinner to the sumptuous cottage hidden in the grounds of the Lomond Estate truly satisfied and ready for a comfort just as enjoyable as the evening’s dinner and wine.

Loch Lomond Golf Club, a truly special place and the perfect accompaniment to one of the legends of wine-making.